Sunday, April 4, 2010

Valentine Day Trip to San Antonio. Day 2: The Mission Trail

Second full day in San Antonio would allow us to see some of the oldest places in the area by one of the most exciting means Ray and I know of: touring around them on bikes. We rode for about 14 miles on the picturesque path along the San Antonio River passing dams and aqueducts towards our destination: the Missions.

In early 1700 several Franciscan monks arrived on a mission from Spain to help convert lost indigenous souls to Christianity. Apparently, the local lost souls were in enough trouble at the time as Apache and Comanche were attacking them from the North and the diseases brought by early Europeans were attacking them from within.
With such lucky co-incidence of necessities and desire for a greater good, Franciscans started several missions which attracted Indians and turned into small communities which provided and protected, educated and spread Spanish Culture to the region. Thus a city of San Antonio was formed at the mission of San Antonio De Valero.

Four more missions spread south of the first one: Mission Conception, Mission San Jose, Mission San Juan, and Mission Espada.




Perhaps there were more missions stretching in multiple directions, but these five survived until our time and formed what’s known as The Mission Trail.

The Missions were built as fortifications with rooms for Indian families along the perimeter of the walls, one or several churches inside, the Granary (food store), the school (yes, they had them there too, sorry kids – you probably were just getting jealous wishing you grew up at that time), and the Convento (where the priests and the peaceful visitors would stay).


This arched gallery is a part of the Convento


Leeza at the entrance into the remains of the Indian home












Ray in front of the church in one of the missions.

The Missions were built from the Texan granite which was chiseled with axes in the nearby quarries. These scratch marks must have been left by the original builders of the Missions.










Remains of the quary.


All Missions were built in early 1700’s, existed for about 80 years, and were then abandoned since there were not enough Indians to continue to support these communities. Even protected by the walls from the outside enemies, the indigenous people died from foreign diseases faster than new can be recruited into missions. We learned that each mission contained about 85 Indian families and was run by 3-4 Franciscan monks making an average population of each community about 120-150 with the large ones ramping up to 180 people. The life in the mission was well regulated. One had to accept Catholic fate to become a member.



Each member of the mission had a job or a trade assigned to them: young men would herd cattle, gather corn, hunt, and train to become soldiers. Each mission would have several soldiers assigned to it to train the population in how to use and make weapons, and how to defend the fortification.




Each day would start with a bell and a mass after which the community would go about their business.



Twice a week, the priest would distribute food to women of the mission based on ‘the need’ (anyone from former Soviet Union sees the similarity here: “from every person based on the ability, to everyone based on the need”?) Hence a married woman would get a slab of meet and a bag of corn on Monday, and then some lard, sugar, and more corn on Thursday. Windows would get a smaller ration.





Priests would teach Indians how to build irrigation systems, raise crops, and make fabric. They also taught Spanish music and songs, and would absolutely freak out when their parish would run away at night to dance around the fires.


Ray in front of the church at mission Espada pondering whether he could live at a Mission.

Ray is no longer in the picture. This answers the ‘will I ever be able to live at the Mission’ question.

Franciscan monks are actually returning to live and owrk at the Missions. Here is a part of the fortification which is being actively used by monks.
Working church at mission San Juan. Services are held regularly for the locals.




Another view of the fortification wall.





The guide at the last mission (Espada) warned that on the way back we would be going uphill and against the wind! Despite the wind, we stopped to marvel at a 300-years-old Spanish Aqueduct which still delivers water! The entire area was irrigated by the system of aqueducts.

Ray under the aqueduct. You could see wated dripping from the top and reflecting in the sun.

Another view of the aqueduct.
We have learned and seen so much during this wonderful ride! It is exceedingly impressive and very hard to believe that Christian Religion and Spanish culture could be spread to the entire region by means of such infinitesimal communities and in such a short time. The descendants of Tejano’s (the nation created as a result of assimilation of numerous Indian tribes) are still very much residing in the area making an integral part of the cultural puzzle in the Southern part of the US.



Leeza's lucky charm (given by David years ago) travelled with us and enjoyed some authentic Tex-Mex with us after the bike ride.









To learn more about San Antonio missions, visit http://www.texasexplorer.com/SanAntonioMissions.htm
Look for the upcoming posts from Ray about our visit to the Alamo and our adventure en-route to San Antonio!